Hi Folks,
I'd like to know what glue-up method, i.e. the method for adhering
the stamp (pink stuff or white stuff) to a wood block, is best suited
to the rather harsh conditions that we have here in the North-East
(temps. range from 100+ to -30 and below during the year).
I started out using rubber cement, but I now think this was a poor
choice as I'm already starting to see some delamination in stamps
only a few months old. We've recently taken maintenance ownership of
several boxes in our area that were placed in the summer of 2000 (the
boxes placed as part of the Bolton, Massachusetts letterboxing
series). As we've been finding these boxes, we've found several that
were soaked. The original placers of these boxes seem to have used
different materials for the glue-up and some of these have faired
better than others. Here's what I've seen so far:
o A stamp (the white stuff) glued to the block (pine) apparently
with Silicone was completely soaked and had become delaminated.
Conclusion: Don't use Silicone in the North-East for these
materials.
o A white-stuff stamp glued to a pine block apparently
with Silicone was completely soaked was still adhered to the
block, but there was a void in the glue-up that caused a crack
in the corner of the (very nice) stamp.
Conclusion: Make sure the surface area between the block and
that stamp is evenly covered (too much glue is a bad thing).
o A stamp (the white stuff) glued to a pine block with some hard
transparent glue was completely soaked and weathered the three
years that it has been placed just fine.
Conclusion: Whatever they used here seemed to work well. I'd like
to repeat this method.
As a curious side-note, the original planters wrote instructions on
the blocks to not place them in a bag. I'm note sure why, we've
always sought to protect our stamps from the elements as well, even
though this may make for a bag that gets dirty from ink. Any ideas
on why these instructions were left? The original planters have
moved out of town and we don't have contact information for them.
In repairing the delaminated stamp we decided to give "hot glue" a
try. Hot glue is a plastic-type glue that is applied using a heated
glue gun. The concern I have with this is that it sets up so quickly
that I'm concerned the underlying surface will be uneven and may lead
to poor imprints (or worse, as in the second stamp above). In the
one case where we've applied this, it seems to have worked well, but
I don't know how it will stand the test of time. I'd like to hear
about your experiences with different "glue-ups" and how well they
have weathered.
Cheers,
Seekyr
Glue-up that stands the test of time.
5 messages in this thread |
Started on 2003-07-07
Glue-up that stands the test of time.
From: lb_seekyr (brad@gladehome.us) |
Date: 2003-07-07 01:58:27 UTC
Re: Glue-up that stands the test of time.
From: SpringChick (springchick@letterbox-mi.com) |
Date: 2003-07-07 02:58:30 UTC
I have used contact cement exclusively on nearly 100 stamps and
haven't noticed any problems with the stamps letting go, even in
boxes that have been in place through the extremes of a hot, humid
summer and sub-zero temperature winter here in Michigan. A few of
these boxes have also seen water damage, but the stamp is fine.
The key with contact cement is making sure you let it "set" properly
before adhering the stamp to the backing material. If you try to
hasten through this step, and join them before it is set, the bond
will not be permanent.
SpringChick
--- In letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com, "lb_seekyr" wrote:
> Hi Folks,
>
> I'd like to know what glue-up method, i.e. the method for adhering
> the stamp (pink stuff or white stuff) to a wood block, is best
suited
> to the rather harsh conditions that we have here in the North-East
> (temps. range from 100+ to -30 and below during the year).
>
> I started out using rubber cement, but I now think this was a poor
> choice as I'm already starting to see some delamination in stamps
> only a few months old. We've recently taken maintenance ownership
of
> several boxes in our area that were placed in the summer of 2000
(the
> boxes placed as part of the Bolton, Massachusetts letterboxing
> series). As we've been finding these boxes, we've found several
that
> were soaked. The original placers of these boxes seem to have used
> different materials for the glue-up and some of these have faired
> better than others. Here's what I've seen so far:
>
> o A stamp (the white stuff) glued to the block (pine) apparently
> with Silicone was completely soaked and had become delaminated.
> Conclusion: Don't use Silicone in the North-East for these
> materials.
>
> o A white-stuff stamp glued to a pine block apparently
> with Silicone was completely soaked was still adhered to the
> block, but there was a void in the glue-up that caused a crack
> in the corner of the (very nice) stamp.
> Conclusion: Make sure the surface area between the block and
> that stamp is evenly covered (too much glue is a bad thing).
>
> o A stamp (the white stuff) glued to a pine block with some hard
> transparent glue was completely soaked and weathered the three
> years that it has been placed just fine.
> Conclusion: Whatever they used here seemed to work well. I'd
like
> to repeat this method.
>
> As a curious side-note, the original planters wrote instructions on
> the blocks to not place them in a bag. I'm note sure why, we've
> always sought to protect our stamps from the elements as well, even
> though this may make for a bag that gets dirty from ink. Any ideas
> on why these instructions were left? The original planters have
> moved out of town and we don't have contact information for them.
>
> In repairing the delaminated stamp we decided to give "hot glue" a
> try. Hot glue is a plastic-type glue that is applied using a
heated
> glue gun. The concern I have with this is that it sets up so
quickly
> that I'm concerned the underlying surface will be uneven and may
lead
> to poor imprints (or worse, as in the second stamp above). In the
> one case where we've applied this, it seems to have worked well,
but
> I don't know how it will stand the test of time. I'd like to hear
> about your experiences with different "glue-ups" and how well they
> have weathered.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Seekyr
haven't noticed any problems with the stamps letting go, even in
boxes that have been in place through the extremes of a hot, humid
summer and sub-zero temperature winter here in Michigan. A few of
these boxes have also seen water damage, but the stamp is fine.
The key with contact cement is making sure you let it "set" properly
before adhering the stamp to the backing material. If you try to
hasten through this step, and join them before it is set, the bond
will not be permanent.
SpringChick
--- In letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com, "lb_seekyr"
> Hi Folks,
>
> I'd like to know what glue-up method, i.e. the method for adhering
> the stamp (pink stuff or white stuff) to a wood block, is best
suited
> to the rather harsh conditions that we have here in the North-East
> (temps. range from 100+ to -30 and below during the year).
>
> I started out using rubber cement, but I now think this was a poor
> choice as I'm already starting to see some delamination in stamps
> only a few months old. We've recently taken maintenance ownership
of
> several boxes in our area that were placed in the summer of 2000
(the
> boxes placed as part of the Bolton, Massachusetts letterboxing
> series). As we've been finding these boxes, we've found several
that
> were soaked. The original placers of these boxes seem to have used
> different materials for the glue-up and some of these have faired
> better than others. Here's what I've seen so far:
>
> o A stamp (the white stuff) glued to the block (pine) apparently
> with Silicone was completely soaked and had become delaminated.
> Conclusion: Don't use Silicone in the North-East for these
> materials.
>
> o A white-stuff stamp glued to a pine block apparently
> with Silicone was completely soaked was still adhered to the
> block, but there was a void in the glue-up that caused a crack
> in the corner of the (very nice) stamp.
> Conclusion: Make sure the surface area between the block and
> that stamp is evenly covered (too much glue is a bad thing).
>
> o A stamp (the white stuff) glued to a pine block with some hard
> transparent glue was completely soaked and weathered the three
> years that it has been placed just fine.
> Conclusion: Whatever they used here seemed to work well. I'd
like
> to repeat this method.
>
> As a curious side-note, the original planters wrote instructions on
> the blocks to not place them in a bag. I'm note sure why, we've
> always sought to protect our stamps from the elements as well, even
> though this may make for a bag that gets dirty from ink. Any ideas
> on why these instructions were left? The original planters have
> moved out of town and we don't have contact information for them.
>
> In repairing the delaminated stamp we decided to give "hot glue" a
> try. Hot glue is a plastic-type glue that is applied using a
heated
> glue gun. The concern I have with this is that it sets up so
quickly
> that I'm concerned the underlying surface will be uneven and may
lead
> to poor imprints (or worse, as in the second stamp above). In the
> one case where we've applied this, it seems to have worked well,
but
> I don't know how it will stand the test of time. I'd like to hear
> about your experiences with different "glue-ups" and how well they
> have weathered.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Seekyr
Re: Glue-up that stands the test of time.
From: mccoys1988 (mccoys1988@yahoo.com) |
Date: 2003-07-07 03:11:39 UTC
I haven't been at this that long but I've been using 5 minute general
purpose epoxy to glue the backs on my stamps. So far so good. Tried
the hot glue - no good, you were right about uneven adhesion and it
peels off the pink stuff pretty easily.
Bigguy
--- In letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com, "SpringChick"
wrote:
> I have used contact cement exclusively on nearly 100 stamps and
> haven't noticed any problems with the stamps letting go, even in
> boxes that have been in place through the extremes of a hot, humid
> summer and sub-zero temperature winter here in Michigan. A few of
> these boxes have also seen water damage, but the stamp is fine.
>
> The key with contact cement is making sure you let it "set"
properly
> before adhering the stamp to the backing material. If you try to
> hasten through this step, and join them before it is set, the bond
> will not be permanent.
>
> SpringChick
>
>
purpose epoxy to glue the backs on my stamps. So far so good. Tried
the hot glue - no good, you were right about uneven adhesion and it
peels off the pink stuff pretty easily.
Bigguy
--- In letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com, "SpringChick"
> I have used contact cement exclusively on nearly 100 stamps and
> haven't noticed any problems with the stamps letting go, even in
> boxes that have been in place through the extremes of a hot, humid
> summer and sub-zero temperature winter here in Michigan. A few of
> these boxes have also seen water damage, but the stamp is fine.
>
> The key with contact cement is making sure you let it "set"
properly
> before adhering the stamp to the backing material. If you try to
> hasten through this step, and join them before it is set, the bond
> will not be permanent.
>
> SpringChick
>
>
Re: Glue-up that stands the test of time.
From: ehughes52 (libby@twcny.rr.com) |
Date: 2003-07-07 03:31:14 UTC
Try "Amazing Goop" AKA "Plumbers Goop" I found it at The Home Depot.
It can withstand temperatures between -40 to 150 degrees F. It's
clear and a little rubbery in texture when cured, in fact it might be
the stuff you thought was silicone. Hot glue seems to be too brittle
for this use. So is krazy glue which so brittle it will shatter like
glass. Hope this helps.
catbead
--- In letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com, "lb_seekyr" wrote:
> Hi Folks,
>
> I'd like to know what glue-up method, i.e. the method for adhering
> the stamp (pink stuff or white stuff) to a wood block, is best
suited
> to the rather harsh conditions that we have here in the North-East
> (temps. range from 100+ to -30 and below during the year).
>
> I started out using rubber cement, but I now think this was a poor
> choice as I'm already starting to see some delamination in stamps
> only a few months old. We've recently taken maintenance ownership
of
> several boxes in our area that were placed in the summer of 2000
(the
> boxes placed as part of the Bolton, Massachusetts letterboxing
> series). As we've been finding these boxes, we've found several
that
> were soaked. The original placers of these boxes seem to have used
> different materials for the glue-up and some of these have faired
> better than others. Here's what I've seen so far:
>
> o A stamp (the white stuff) glued to the block (pine) apparently
> with Silicone was completely soaked and had become delaminated.
> Conclusion: Don't use Silicone in the North-East for these
> materials.
>
> o A white-stuff stamp glued to a pine block apparently
> with Silicone was completely soaked was still adhered to the
> block, but there was a void in the glue-up that caused a crack
> in the corner of the (very nice) stamp.
> Conclusion: Make sure the surface area between the block and
> that stamp is evenly covered (too much glue is a bad thing).
>
> o A stamp (the white stuff) glued to a pine block with some hard
> transparent glue was completely soaked and weathered the three
> years that it has been placed just fine.
> Conclusion: Whatever they used here seemed to work well. I'd
like
> to repeat this method.
>
> As a curious side-note, the original planters wrote instructions on
> the blocks to not place them in a bag. I'm note sure why, we've
> always sought to protect our stamps from the elements as well, even
> though this may make for a bag that gets dirty from ink. Any ideas
> on why these instructions were left? The original planters have
> moved out of town and we don't have contact information for them.
>
> In repairing the delaminated stamp we decided to give "hot glue" a
> try. Hot glue is a plastic-type glue that is applied using a
heated
> glue gun. The concern I have with this is that it sets up so
quickly
> that I'm concerned the underlying surface will be uneven and may
lead
> to poor imprints (or worse, as in the second stamp above). In the
> one case where we've applied this, it seems to have worked well,
but
> I don't know how it will stand the test of time. I'd like to hear
> about your experiences with different "glue-ups" and how well they
> have weathered.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Seekyr
It can withstand temperatures between -40 to 150 degrees F. It's
clear and a little rubbery in texture when cured, in fact it might be
the stuff you thought was silicone. Hot glue seems to be too brittle
for this use. So is krazy glue which so brittle it will shatter like
glass. Hope this helps.
catbead
--- In letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com, "lb_seekyr"
> Hi Folks,
>
> I'd like to know what glue-up method, i.e. the method for adhering
> the stamp (pink stuff or white stuff) to a wood block, is best
suited
> to the rather harsh conditions that we have here in the North-East
> (temps. range from 100+ to -30 and below during the year).
>
> I started out using rubber cement, but I now think this was a poor
> choice as I'm already starting to see some delamination in stamps
> only a few months old. We've recently taken maintenance ownership
of
> several boxes in our area that were placed in the summer of 2000
(the
> boxes placed as part of the Bolton, Massachusetts letterboxing
> series). As we've been finding these boxes, we've found several
that
> were soaked. The original placers of these boxes seem to have used
> different materials for the glue-up and some of these have faired
> better than others. Here's what I've seen so far:
>
> o A stamp (the white stuff) glued to the block (pine) apparently
> with Silicone was completely soaked and had become delaminated.
> Conclusion: Don't use Silicone in the North-East for these
> materials.
>
> o A white-stuff stamp glued to a pine block apparently
> with Silicone was completely soaked was still adhered to the
> block, but there was a void in the glue-up that caused a crack
> in the corner of the (very nice) stamp.
> Conclusion: Make sure the surface area between the block and
> that stamp is evenly covered (too much glue is a bad thing).
>
> o A stamp (the white stuff) glued to a pine block with some hard
> transparent glue was completely soaked and weathered the three
> years that it has been placed just fine.
> Conclusion: Whatever they used here seemed to work well. I'd
like
> to repeat this method.
>
> As a curious side-note, the original planters wrote instructions on
> the blocks to not place them in a bag. I'm note sure why, we've
> always sought to protect our stamps from the elements as well, even
> though this may make for a bag that gets dirty from ink. Any ideas
> on why these instructions were left? The original planters have
> moved out of town and we don't have contact information for them.
>
> In repairing the delaminated stamp we decided to give "hot glue" a
> try. Hot glue is a plastic-type glue that is applied using a
heated
> glue gun. The concern I have with this is that it sets up so
quickly
> that I'm concerned the underlying surface will be uneven and may
lead
> to poor imprints (or worse, as in the second stamp above). In the
> one case where we've applied this, it seems to have worked well,
but
> I don't know how it will stand the test of time. I'd like to hear
> about your experiences with different "glue-ups" and how well they
> have weathered.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Seekyr
Re: Glue-up that stands the test of time.
From: lb_seekyr (brad@gladehome.us) |
Date: 2003-07-07 23:09:03 UTC
I had another reply from someone that also used 5 minute epoxy with
good success. In addition she recommended using a foam backer
between a plywood block and the stamp. I plan to give several of
these suggestions I've received a try to see what works against the
elements. I'll glue up some test blocks and leave them exposed.
Of the two boxes we had out over last winter, both have remained
dry. I think this is a big factor in longevity of a box. We'll see
how well they hold up over the next few years...
Cheers,
Seekyr
--- In letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com, "mccoys1988"
wrote:
> I haven't been at this that long but I've been using 5 minute
general
> purpose epoxy to glue the backs on my stamps. So far so good.
Tried
> the hot glue - no good, you were right about uneven adhesion and it
> peels off the pink stuff pretty easily.
> Bigguy
>
> --- In letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com, "SpringChick"
> wrote:
> > I have used contact cement exclusively on nearly 100 stamps and
> > haven't noticed any problems with the stamps letting go, even in
> > boxes that have been in place through the extremes of a hot,
humid
> > summer and sub-zero temperature winter here in Michigan. A few
of
> > these boxes have also seen water damage, but the stamp is fine.
> >
> > The key with contact cement is making sure you let it "set"
> properly
> > before adhering the stamp to the backing material. If you try to
> > hasten through this step, and join them before it is set, the
bond
> > will not be permanent.
> >
> > SpringChick
> >
> >
good success. In addition she recommended using a foam backer
between a plywood block and the stamp. I plan to give several of
these suggestions I've received a try to see what works against the
elements. I'll glue up some test blocks and leave them exposed.
Of the two boxes we had out over last winter, both have remained
dry. I think this is a big factor in longevity of a box. We'll see
how well they hold up over the next few years...
Cheers,
Seekyr
--- In letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com, "mccoys1988"
wrote:
> I haven't been at this that long but I've been using 5 minute
general
> purpose epoxy to glue the backs on my stamps. So far so good.
Tried
> the hot glue - no good, you were right about uneven adhesion and it
> peels off the pink stuff pretty easily.
> Bigguy
>
> --- In letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com, "SpringChick"
>
> > I have used contact cement exclusively on nearly 100 stamps and
> > haven't noticed any problems with the stamps letting go, even in
> > boxes that have been in place through the extremes of a hot,
humid
> > summer and sub-zero temperature winter here in Michigan. A few
of
> > these boxes have also seen water damage, but the stamp is fine.
> >
> > The key with contact cement is making sure you let it "set"
> properly
> > before adhering the stamp to the backing material. If you try to
> > hasten through this step, and join them before it is set, the
bond
> > will not be permanent.
> >
> > SpringChick
> >
> >